The Chile Diaries, Part 1: Teens Report Live From the Moon Of Atacama

Every once in a while, in my whirlwind, jet-away life, I get to travel with my family – hubby Anthony (who solo travels as much as I do) and our two children, now teenagers, Marissa and Dominick. Not often though. So when the opportunity presents, Anthony and I (like most parents) try to find the perfect balance: a destination that will hold our children’s interest, prove fun and adventurous, yet open their eyes to different lifestyles, cultures, landscapes and language.

Which is how Chile – from the high desert of Atacama to the southern tip of Patagonia – became the canvas for our family exploration of South America. Because the ending of our trip overlapped with the first day(s) back to school, Anthony and I decided to put our teen travelers to work by having them press fingers to I-Pads and record their experience…

We Arrive, By Dominick

The drive from the airport to Atacama was only an hour, but felt shorter to me because I was so busy gazing at the magnificent desert. When we arrived in the town of San Pedro De Atacama, I was surprised to see so many tourists and wild dogs wandering about. The town was small but crowded, and flooded with artisan shops. At Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa (where we stayed), we were happily greeted, then told it was lunch time. The menu was fantastic. I chose a vegetarian burrito, then changed into my bathing suit and hit the spa.

Inside, there were two wide, adobe cylinders containing steam rooms – one for men, one for women. There was also an outdoor hot pool with hydrotherapy jets and bubble chairs. I settled in quickly. The water from the hydrotherapy jets massaged my neck and back, and it felt great, especially after flying. Soon, the steam room called me in.

Afterward, I watched the sun dip slowly into the mountains as nightfall came and the moon shone brightly. I took a warm shower in my room, hopped into my nice bed with heavy covers and slept the night away….

Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa – What We Loved

  • Stony, rustic
  • Outdoor fireplaces
  • Great food
  • Wild animals (mostly dogs)
  • Fun excursions!!!

Tierra Atacama offers daily excursions to guests and on their first full day, the Cifelli’s ventured out into the craggy, moody and moon-like landscape…

What We Learned, by Dominick

You can pick the salt up right off the ground and taste it, but the one rule of the park is to not remove any of the salt from the preservation. We learned too that there was a gold mining area here called Tres Marias (Three Ladies), and that Chilean Spanish is different from actual Spanish. The purest Spanish is spoken in Peru.

What We Saw…rocky hills and flat areas of sand, very few plants, large mountains and volcanoes surrounding us. Smelled…sulfur. Heard… the running of the truck. Tasted…the saltiness in the air (that I breathed through my mouth), the salt crystals from the ground – Marissa

On day two, the Cifelli family opted to explore Cactus Canyon.

What We Learned, by Dominick

I loved this excursion. It was more my style. And consisted of a lot of trekking – not too hard, not too easy. Everywhere we went, there were huge cactuses towering over us. Most were about 20-30 feet tall. They take a long time to grow, only 3.5 cm each year, but is worth the wait.

Inside the canyon, there were a lot of dragon flies and beetles. I learned that finding dragon flies in a dry place is good luck because it means there is water nearby.

We did a lot of rock climbing up and down. I stayed close to our guide, Danielo, so I would know where to put my feet next.  Even though pumas are on the extinct list in Atacama, Danielo told us he found puma tracks. Wow. Our long, two-hour trek ended with a glorious view of the mountains and cactuses – lots and lots of cactuses. I now know why they call it Cactus Canyon.

What We Saw…tall cactuses, large, rocky slopes, the brightness of the sun. Heard…running of the river water, voice of our guide Danielo. Felt…sand and dirt on the rocks, warm sun, crumbling salt in my hand. Tasted…the chocolate bar I ate on our break – Marissa

Just Back From Ballyfin


Voted “Best New Resort in The World” by Robb Report and listed as one of the “World’s Best New Hotels” on the Conde Nast Hotlist, everyone is buzzing about Ballyfin in Ireland this year… and now, travel advisor Yannette Edwards of Cardoza-Bungey Travel  is too!  Yannette is just back from Ballyfin.  Here is what she had to say about her experience:

“I have traveled to over 110 countries, and have experienced many 5 star properties.  Deluxe this and that, gourmet food promised, spas galore, but NEVER have I experienced what I did when I stayed at Ballyfin June 22.

I traveled with my older brother to 10 properties in Ireland last month.  They were all deluxe, all “nice”  until we arrived at Ballyfin.  What your property is, and the way I will sell it, is “should be on your bucket list.”  I cannot imagine having any client traveling to Ireland and not highly suggesting they stay with you for 1-4 days.  I realize what a gem you have, and I would hate for it to change to a mainstream hotel.  What you and your team have achieved is perfection.

I must say, I used the buggy, I walked 15 KM around the property, went to the tower, ( to the top!), visited where the skeet shooting was, went down to the boat house, walked your gardens, etc.  I toured the property and was in awe of what you have accomplished.  Experiencing Ballyfin made me feel transported in time, magical, and was just so impressed with the feel.

I feel like I have seen it all in this business… but this is truly a labor of love and your passion for Ballyfin shows.”



To learn more about Ballyfin, email Jaj at janine@janinecifelli.com.

From Italy – With Love


It has every making of an Italian love story. Beauty. Passion. Romance. And a dream. All played out along Italy’s stunning Amalfi Coast…

A few months ago when Mariella Avino, managing director of Palazzo Sasso, informed me that the world-renowned five-star hotel would officially assume its family name beginning 2013 – becoming `Palazzo Avino’ – my thought was, `But of course…’

I have been coming to the Amalfi Coast (and Palazzo Sasso specifically) since 1997 – the year the hotel opened. And like many who sojourn here, I have fallen in love. I’ve fallen in love with Ravello’s secret gardens and twisty cobblestone streets spilling with limencello stands and colorful handmade pottery. And I‘ve fallen in love with the Palazzo’s warm staff, ancient walls, stunning sea views and soul.

A soul that touches you the moment you lay eyes on it and stays with you days, months, years, after you visit.

Palazzo‘s love story began years before my arrival – with Giuseppe Avino (Mariella’s father). For much of his life, Giuseppe owned and operated a successful tomato canning business. But he never gave up on his dream of opening a magnificent hotel which he ultimately found set high on a hilltop overlooking the Amalfi Coast in Ravello.

When Giuseppe first saw Palazzo Sasso, the 12th-century palace was, quite literally, a shell of a building. There were no floors, no electricity or running water. But Giuseppe saw the potential for something grand, and for three years, while still running his tomato factory, painstakingly restored the 12th-century palace. In a conversation with Mariella recently, she spoke of her father’s passion for the restoration and also of his business savvy.

“I was still quite young when my father opened the hotel, but I learned later – and found it so brilliant really – that my father was very aware that he had no idea how to run a hotel himself. And so he brought in the best of the best to run it for him.“

Many of those original talents are still with Palazzo Sasso today – one being Antonio Ferrara, concierge extraordinaire, who knows everyone, remembers everything and personally greets every guest. I always know I’m home when I enter the hotel‘s marbled reception area with its stained glass, grand piano, art and French doors, and see Antonio waiting to greet me and escort me to my room.

This personal touch, exceptional level of service and detail will remain, despite the name change.

“Nothing is going to change,” Mariella assures. “Only the name will change and that’s special. The content of the experience, the hotel’s aesthetics, the impeccable service — all will remain the same. The family has always been behind the hotel, now we are publicly putting our face on it.”

The reason for the name change only adds to the Palazzo’s epic love story. The family is neither egotistical nor crazy (as a few colleagues have lovingly queried). But rather, the name change is the result of a three-year legal issue surrounding the actual physical palazzo building.

Putting the Avino name on the hotel not only makes sense but, as Mariella notes, is also a fitting tribute to her father and grandfather, as there are no sons in the family and in time the Avino name will phase out. Be it Palazzo Sasso or Palazzo Avino, for me, this hotel – and Ravello – is one of my favorite places in the world to be.

Among my favorite things to do, see and experience while there:

  • Upon landing: Drink a fantastic coffee.
  •  Must-do: Villa Cimbrone. The Wagner music festival (in summer). Driving the winding roads along the Amalfi Coast. And definitely a local cooking class.
  •  Must Dine: At the Palazzo – with two-Michelin-star chef Pino Lavarra; and in town at Cumpo Cosima.
  • Best souvenir: The region’s handmade ceramic pottery and limencello
  •  Favorite Pastime: People watching in Ravello
  • Local to meet: Georgio Carno who sells the most exquisite pink coral at his town-square store, Museo del Corallo.
  • What to pack: Smart casual, one dressy piece, and comfortable walking shoes. The best way to see Ravello is on foot. Follow the ancient steps down the cliff to the tiny fishing village of Minori.

Just Back From The Ranch at Rock Creek: Travel Advisor Chad Clark


Travel advisor Chad Clark of Chad Clark Travel (an affiliate of Camelback Odyssey Travel) and his wife are just back from The Ranch at Rock Creek,  an all-inclusive luxury guest ranch in Montana that brings together upscale amenities and wide open spaces like never before. Here is what Chad had to say about the Ranch:

I would recommend the Ranch to anyone who is looking to “get off the grid” and enjoy the best in fine food, fun, and hospitality in the most beautiful of settings. Our stay at the ranch was highlighted by incredible service from a staff that truly has a very strong passion for what they do. This is a top luxury property that will make you feel like you never want to return home.


To learn more about The Ranch at Rock Creek, email Jaj at janine@janinecifelli.com, or Chad at cclark@chadclarktravel.com.

Just Back From Otahuna Lodge: Happy Dumas of Cardoza-Bungey Travel

Travel agent Happy Dumas of Cardoza-Bungey Travel just returned from Otahuna Lodge, New Zealand’s elegant, historic country estate. Here is what Happy had to say about her stay:

There is a place in New Zealand that must not be missed if you enjoy special unique properties.  Otahuna Lodge is comforting, elegant, and pampering without ever being intrusive.  Run with love and care by two young American men, you won’t soon forget your stay there.  You will want to stay forever.  At least I did!

Beautiful breakfasts served in the great kitchen, lovely dinners served in the elegant dining room or a private affair in the cozy library make meals a treat. The gardens with plants, trees and flowers of all varieties and colors will please even the most discriminate guest.  The grounds are magnificent.

The elegant two-story home has seven bedrooms, each with a different theme and all in perfect taste.   Chef Jimmy invited those of us who had interest to come into the kitchen and learn how to prepare a couple of the dishes we were to enjoy at dinner that evening.  It was such fun. Should you have some laundry that needs washing, that will be done for you at no additional charge and delivered to your room wrapped like a present in a lovely wicker basket. It is the small personal touches that put Otahuna Lodge at the top of the luxury list.

Next time I will visit in September so I can see the thousands of daffodils in bloom.   How lucky those are who get to stay at Otahuna under the watchful eyes of Miles and Hall.

HAPPY DUMAS
Cardoza-Bungey Travel
A member of VIRTUOSO
P.O. Box 433
Burlingame, Ca. 94011

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