The Chile Diaries, Part 1: Teens Report Live From the Moon Of Atacama

Every once in a while, in my whirlwind, jet-away life, I get to travel with my family – hubby Anthony (who solo travels as much as I do) and our two children, now teenagers, Marissa and Dominick. Not often though. So when the opportunity presents, Anthony and I (like most parents) try to find the perfect balance: a destination that will hold our children’s interest, prove fun and adventurous, yet open their eyes to different lifestyles, cultures, landscapes and language.

Which is how Chile – from the high desert of Atacama to the southern tip of Patagonia – became the canvas for our family exploration of South America. Because the ending of our trip overlapped with the first day(s) back to school, Anthony and I decided to put our teen travelers to work by having them press fingers to I-Pads and record their experience…

We Arrive, By Dominick

The drive from the airport to Atacama was only an hour, but felt shorter to me because I was so busy gazing at the magnificent desert. When we arrived in the town of San Pedro De Atacama, I was surprised to see so many tourists and wild dogs wandering about. The town was small but crowded, and flooded with artisan shops. At Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa (where we stayed), we were happily greeted, then told it was lunch time. The menu was fantastic. I chose a vegetarian burrito, then changed into my bathing suit and hit the spa.

Inside, there were two wide, adobe cylinders containing steam rooms – one for men, one for women. There was also an outdoor hot pool with hydrotherapy jets and bubble chairs. I settled in quickly. The water from the hydrotherapy jets massaged my neck and back, and it felt great, especially after flying. Soon, the steam room called me in.

Afterward, I watched the sun dip slowly into the mountains as nightfall came and the moon shone brightly. I took a warm shower in my room, hopped into my nice bed with heavy covers and slept the night away….

Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa – What We Loved

  • Stony, rustic
  • Outdoor fireplaces
  • Great food
  • Wild animals (mostly dogs)
  • Fun excursions!!!

Tierra Atacama offers daily excursions to guests and on their first full day, the Cifelli’s ventured out into the craggy, moody and moon-like landscape…

What We Learned, by Dominick

You can pick the salt up right off the ground and taste it, but the one rule of the park is to not remove any of the salt from the preservation. We learned too that there was a gold mining area here called Tres Marias (Three Ladies), and that Chilean Spanish is different from actual Spanish. The purest Spanish is spoken in Peru.

What We Saw…rocky hills and flat areas of sand, very few plants, large mountains and volcanoes surrounding us. Smelled…sulfur. Heard… the running of the truck. Tasted…the saltiness in the air (that I breathed through my mouth), the salt crystals from the ground – Marissa

On day two, the Cifelli family opted to explore Cactus Canyon.

What We Learned, by Dominick

I loved this excursion. It was more my style. And consisted of a lot of trekking – not too hard, not too easy. Everywhere we went, there were huge cactuses towering over us. Most were about 20-30 feet tall. They take a long time to grow, only 3.5 cm each year, but is worth the wait.

Inside the canyon, there were a lot of dragon flies and beetles. I learned that finding dragon flies in a dry place is good luck because it means there is water nearby.

We did a lot of rock climbing up and down. I stayed close to our guide, Danielo, so I would know where to put my feet next.  Even though pumas are on the extinct list in Atacama, Danielo told us he found puma tracks. Wow. Our long, two-hour trek ended with a glorious view of the mountains and cactuses – lots and lots of cactuses. I now know why they call it Cactus Canyon.

What We Saw…tall cactuses, large, rocky slopes, the brightness of the sun. Heard…running of the river water, voice of our guide Danielo. Felt…sand and dirt on the rocks, warm sun, crumbling salt in my hand. Tasted…the chocolate bar I ate on our break – Marissa

Following Their Bliss – The Road to Otahuna

Hall Cannon. And Miles Refo.

I love these two guys. Not just because they’re smart, funny and dashing (which they are). Or because they created and now co-own New Zealand‘s most luxurious small hotel, Otahuna Lodge – a seven-suite, 30-acre estate (which they do).

I love them because they took a chance. Followed their bliss. And truly allowed travel to change their lives.

Hall and Miles grew up worlds apart. Hall, a southern boy, is from Memphis, Tennessee; Miles, a New Englander, hails from West Newbury, Massachusetts. The two met in college. Rooted their careers in Manhattan (Hall in real estate; Miles, in publishing and marketing). And they traveled. “Well,” as they‘re fond of saying.

“We’d been living in New York for a number of years and knew we didn’t want to be there forever,” says Hall. “So we took a year to travel and figure out what (and where) we wanted to be when we grew up.”

Originally, their mindset was to relocate to the West Coast (USA) or British Columbia. But three months in New Zealand, traveling from the most southern tip to the most northern top, changed everything – as New Zealand is known to do.

I still remember my first visit there. Its greenness. Its breathtaking beauty (actually prettier than pictures). And its people – so amazingly real, not at all pretentious.

Hall and Miles had a similar first impression. “We were blown away by how astonishingly beautiful New Zealand was,“ Hall recalls. “And we found the Kiwis to be honest, wonderfully down to earth people.“

But it was Otahuna Lodge, built in 1895 and set on 30 acres, that sealed their relocation deal. Otahuna, translated from the Maori language means “little hill among the hills,‘ is considered the largest private residence and best example of Queen Anne architecture in Australasia. It served as the primary residence of politician Sir Heaton Rhodes for more than 60 years during which time the gardens – pear, peach, plum orchards; walnut and hazelnut trees, vegetable, mushroom, rose and daffodil gardens became one Sir Rhodes greatest legacies.

Since opening Otahuna in 2007, Hall and Miles have lovingly restored both the lodge and the gardens, despite a few setbacks from Mother Nature. An earthquake in 2010 in Christ Church (25 miles away) caused damage to Otahuna’s 11 chimneys, forcing the lodge to close for four months. A rare, second quake just a month after opening, forced another closure.But today, all of the chimneys have been rebuilt; all 16 of Otahuna’s fireplaces are working, and the lodge truly feels like a luxurious home away from home.

“Otahuna represents what we like to find when we are traveling ourselves,” says Hall. “We are not academic hoteliers. But we’ve traveled a lot and we’ve traveled well. We know what we like to find and what’s important.”

Which is: fine wine, and fresh ingredients; stunning beauty and architecture; amenities such as bedside cookie jars, nightly turndown with sheepskin rugs and spa treatments. Overarching connection and authenticity.

“At the end of the day, travelers remember people and experiences, not thread counts,” says Hall (though there’s been no skimping in that department).

One of Hall’s favorite moments was an American couple, who arrived by private jet, and “instantly got Otahuna,” says Hall. “They saw it as their home and wanted to use it as such. They made a very unusual request which was to host a dinner party for their flight crew in the turret of their suite. The couple was staying in the Rhodes Suite, originally Sir Rhodes’ bedroom, and  it took “some ingenuity in setting up dinner for eight in the turret. But we did. And they had a truly amazing night eating foods from our gardens, drinking the local wines. It was an experience that could only happen in New Zealand, and in this place. Which is the magic of Otahuna.“

And to which I personally can attest. During my stay at Otahuna I would sightsee the most amazing sights by day – glaciers, vineyards, volcanoes, alps, whales. And then cozy into the luxury and comfort of my suite, fireplace roaring. Bliss defined…

On my personal ‘must-do’ list while visiting New Zealand and Otahuna Lodge:

  • Must Drink: all the [local] wines placed in front of you, especially those from Pegasus Bay and Felton Road.
  • Must Eat: the lamb
  • Must Meet: wine manager, Emma, who’s so filled with energy and information; and Adrienne, reservations, who is warm and welcoming and will do anything for you.
  • Must Do: fly to the southern alps in a heli and have a picnic on a glacier!
  • Must Bring Home: gloves made with Possum wool (no, not the same possum as in the States). So warm! And something made of Green Stone.

Just in Time for the Holidays: Special Offers From Our 5-star Properties


Be a Bon Vivant at Hotel Le Toiny
(St. Barths)
From March 1st to December 19th, 2012 experience a 4-night stay at Hotel Le Toiny on St. Barths, the “Caribbean Capital” for food, and devote yourself to refined, sensuous enjoyment… simply BE a BON VIVANT! Package includes: transfers, daily breakfast, three 3-course dinners, an Oenology course, a 2-course lunch, convertible SMART car, two 1-hour spa treatments, a bottle of wine and gourmet snacks upon arrival.
www.letoiny.com 


Blantyre’s East Meets West Promotion
(Massachusetts)
Blantyre and Mandarin Oriental Boston are offering a fall travel package for those seeking a bit of the city and country in a quick getaway. The East Meets West package features accommodation for two nights at each property, full American breakfast, and credit at the Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Boston. Additional freebies are also included, like museum passes and amenities at both hotels. *Offer valid until Dec. 22, 2011*
www.blantyre.com 


The Lungarno Collection’s “Suite” Shopping Package
(Florence)
Shopping and Florence go hand in hand in Italy. Take advantage of Lungarno’s “Suite” Shopping Package. Package includes: accommodation for two nights, breakfast buffet, one 3-course dinner in the restaurant of your choice, private car with chauffeur, customized itinerary of the most distinctive Christmas markets in the city, free entrance to the Salvatore Ferragamo museum, free copy of the autobiography of Salvatore Ferragamo “The Shoemaker of Dreams.”
www.thelungarnocollection.com 


Three Ultimate Days at Otahuna Lodge
(New Zealand)
Late spring and early summer offer many pleasures for Otahuna guests. The hotel’s “Three Ultimate Days” program is perfect for those looking to pack in the highlights of New Zealand during a short stay. The program includes a full day at Otahuna, discovering the Canterbury High Country, and the popular Akaroa & Banks Peninsula experience. *Looking for a customized program? Otahuna’s staff is happy to suggest other options as well.*
www.otahuna.co.nz 


Two Stay For Free with Clayoquot’s Elders Package
(B.C., Canada)
A popular destination for multi-generational families, Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is paying tribute to the oldest and wisest family members with their 2012 Elders Package that offers a free stay for up to two elders, 55 and older, travelling with families of six or more. The special offer is designed to encourage even more families to reconnect in the magic of the Canadian wilderness.
www.wildretreat.com 


Twin Farms: Perfecting the Art of Giving this Holiday Season
(Vermont)
Stay at Twin Farms before December 22, and take home a handcrafted glass Simon Pearce Vermont Evergreen. In keeping with the spirit of giving, Twin Farms will also donate $100 from each new reservation to the Vermont Food Bank. Fine cuisine, wine, and spirits, as well as on-site activities are all included.
www.twinfarms.com 

Enjoy 7 nights at the Price of 6 at the Newly Renovated Petit St. Vincent (Private Island, Grenadines)
In 2012, stay 6 nights and receive the 7th night free when you stay at Petit St. Vincent in the Grenadines. Rates include: three meals per day, all non–alcoholic beverages, early morning coffee and afternoon tea, room service, and use of all non-motorized water sports and facilities on the island.
www.petitstvincent.com 

Acqualina’s Ultimate Spa Package for Two (Florida)
Enjoy the ultimate state of relaxation. Acqualina’s South Florida vacation package includes Holistic Facials and Aromatherapy Massages for two in the award winning ESPA spa. The Ultimate Spa Package for Two includes: daily Continental Breakfast for two, four 50 minute ESPA Treatments per vacation package.
www.acqualinaresort.com

*Please contact Janine about any of the above offers. jc@janinecifelli.com*

Fall Foliage Special at Twin Farms, VT

If you’ve always wanted to visit Twin Farms, but can’t manage a full weekend away…

If you need the inspiration that arises from an all-inclusive, customized escape to unparalleled serenity…

If you want to enjoy a fall foliage that only Vermont can offer…

Here’s your opportunity: Twin Farms is offering  special one-night rates through September and October.

Availability is limited for select dates, so please call 800-TwinFarms (894-6327) for details. 

Quality Time is Priceless, Extra Time is Complimentary at Acqualina

Acqualina Resort & Spa on the Beach, South Miami Beach’s most luxurious hotel, is running a fantastic promotion for the month of September. For every two nights booked in September, enjoy the third night on the hotel plus the following inclusions:

  •  Complimentary Internet Access
  • Daily $40 Body or Facial Spa Treatment Credit for up to two adults
  • Complimentary Marine Biology Inspired Children’s Program, AcquaMarine

The September Three for Two offer is available now until September 30, 2011 with rates starting at $350 per night. To book this offer call, 866.889.6591 or click here.


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